Discover Ushuaia, Argentina: Your Ultimate Latin American Tourism Guide

As March drew to a close, I realized that if I didn’t make my way to Ushuaia soon, winter would once again blanket the city. With this in mind, I booked a flight for 6:50 AM on Saturday from Buenos Aires, with a return scheduled for 7:50 PM on Sunday. Despite checking in online ahead of time, a half-hour delay notification still couldn’t shake the early morning grogginess.

The plane touched down in Ushuaia at 10:40 AM, and although the sun was shining brightly, the temperature was noticeably cooler compared to Buenos Aires. Daytime highs struggled to reach 10 degrees, and nighttime temperatures dipped to around 0 degrees. Thankfully, a colleague had lent me a warm down jacket.

This trip, I was accompanied by another colleague who had never been to Ushuaia before. Each of us carried a backpack, which made our journey a bit less spontaneous than my previous solo adventures. We had pre-booked a comprehensive tour package that included airport transfers in Ushuaia, boat tickets for the afternoon, a night’s stay at a hotel, and transportation and a guide for the next day’s excursion to Tierra del Fuego National Park.

Many friends raved about the ARAKUR resort, perched on a hill outside the city, with breathtaking views (albeit at a price three times higher than city hotels). We landed at 10:30 AM and were promptly picked up from the airport and whisked away to the hotel. Given its remote location, the hotel offers a shuttle service every hour to facilitate travel between the city and the resort.

After a brief wait of about half an hour in the lobby, we received our room keys and checked in early at 11:50 AM. After settling in, we hopped on the 12:00 PM shuttle to explore the city. The Old Captain Restaurant, located by the pier, is the most renowned dining spot in Ushuaia. It opens at 7:00 PM and fills up within just 10 minutes.

However, when we visited at noon, there were plenty of available seats. We ordered a large king crab, which required cash payment, and marveled at its size next to my colleague’s hand. The crab was delicious, though not as affordable as some had claimed, possibly due to the off-season. Our afternoon boat departure was set for 3:00 PM, so after picking up the tickets, we had about half an hour to stroll around.

The neighborhood was charming, with all the houses being two-story, and the north-south streets sloping steeply, adding to the unique character of the area.

We set sail at 3:00 PM, gliding through the serene Beagle Channel, with Argentina on one side and Chile on the other. The channel was as calm as a mirror, reflecting the stunning landscapes around us. Our first stop was the iconic lighthouse at the End of the World, located about 20 kilometers east of the pier.

Despite the clear skies, standing at the bow of the boat in a down jacket, the wind was still biting cold. I had seen pictures before and imagined the lighthouse to be grand and imposing, but upon seeing it in person, I realized that the photos might have been taken from a particularly flattering angle.

In reality, it was only about three or four stories tall and rather unassuming. The small island, however, was teeming with life, with birds and seals basking in the sun. The boat circled the island, giving us nearly half an hour to observe the wildlife up close before we continued to our next destination.

On the way, we were treated to a spectacular show by whales and dolphins. The captain slowed the boat and even stopped for a while, allowing us to savor the moment and take in the majestic creatures. Finally, after another hour of sailing, we approached an island bustling with penguins. I could see tourists walking around, but our guide explained that since we were with a different tour company, we couldn’t disembark.

We spent about 20 minutes there, watching the penguins from the boat, before beginning our return journey.

We arrived back at the pier just after 8:00 PM, as the sky was starting to darken. That evening, we found a cozy restaurant near the pier and indulged in a delicious roasted lamb dinner, a local specialty that is particularly famous in southern Argentina.