Valparaíso, the enchanting hometown of the renowned poet Pablo Neruda and one of the top ten picturesque seaside towns in Latin America, is just a short 2-hour drive from Santiago, making it an ideal destination for a day trip.
I’m not sure if it was because I visited on a weekday during the off-season, but even under the bright sunshine, this vibrant and colorful town exuded a sense of desolation. Homeless individuals were scattered throughout, and the hilly terrain, coupled with small, tightly packed houses, created a maze of hidden alleys that can feel unsafe when sparsely populated.
Solo travelers are strongly advised to join a tour group. During my independent exploration, I only felt at ease near the charming cafes in the hill area and inside Neruda’s former residence; other parts of the town left me feeling uneasy. On my way up to the hill area, I even encountered a group of disoriented young troublemakers XD (not 🍃 but white).
Street art, often linked to drugs and gangs, also means the pervasive smell of marijuana and urine, garbage and feces littering the ground, and homeless people whistling at female travelers while making inappropriate gestures. This experience has certainly demystified this form of art for me.
👀 How to Play
If you prefer to explore independently, your journey can be divided into three main parts:
1️⃣ Cerro Alegre & Cerro Concepción: This hill area is a kaleidoscope of colorful houses and graffiti walls, dotted with cozy cafes and quaint shops. Don’t miss the scenic cable car rides.
2️⃣ Old District & Museums: Visit Plaza Sotomayor, which hosts a lively handicraft market, and the Open-air Museum of Valparaíso, featuring more colorful houses and graffiti walls in an open, unstructured setting.
Also, don’t miss Neruda’s former residence, La Sebastiana, where a 9.5k admission fee includes an audio guide (no Chinese available). The views from inside are breathtaking.
3️⃣ Harbor Cruise & Sunset at Cerro 21 Viewpoint: While the sunset from Cerro 21 is stunning, it’s not recommended for solo travelers.
Returning to Santiago before dark is the safer option.
☠️ For independent travel, avoid the Artilleria area. When I ventured there, locals urgently pulled me back, warning me of its dangers. Be cautious in all areas; apart from the interior of the Neruda residence, no place is entirely safe.
🍚 What to Eat
The hill area boasts a variety of delightful cafes and restaurants with panoramic views, with prices ranging from ¥8k-16k per person. In the old district, local set meals cost between 5k-8k.
⚓ Transportation
Take the metro to Terminal Sur Santiago de Chile or Pajaritos, and after exiting, purchase a bus ticket at the station for 2.5k-5.4k. The one-way trip to Valparaíso takes about 1.5-2 hours. Upon arrival, it’s a 40-60 minute walk to the main attractions. Google Maps provides bus routes, and each ride costs 500 cash.
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