My final destination in Chile was the vibrant port city of Valparaíso and its neighboring seaside town, Viña del Mar, just a short drive away. With safety in mind, I booked a day trip from Santiago in advance through Denomades for around $35 per person, and it turned out to be an incredible experience that I wholeheartedly recommend!
Before my visit, I knew very little about these two cities. However, as soon as I arrived, I was immediately captivated by their distinctly unique atmospheres. Valparaíso, a historic port city built on a hill, is the second largest city in Chile and even older than Santiago. It was once one of the most significant ports in South America, but its glory gradually faded with the opening of the Panama Canal, followed by economic decline, earthquakes, and devastating fires.
From the ashes, though, a new and vibrant life has emerged—street graffiti art.
Climbing aboard the old cable car, I ascended slowly, and a kaleidoscope of colors unfolded before my eyes. Houses painted in red, orange, blue, and green were stacked on the steep slopes, creating a scene that looked like something out of a fairy tale. But as I got closer, the reality of dilapidated houses and slums became apparent.
Wandering through the winding alleys, I would catch glimpses of the azure Pacific Ocean through gaps, and at other times, find myself in narrow paths adorned with graffiti and European-style buildings, each step bringing new surprises or unexpected sights [laugh-cry emoji].
In Valparaíso, graffiti is not a fringe culture but a form of expression embraced by the entire city. It has become an integral part of the city’s spirit, showcasing its freedom, diversity, boldness, and vitality. The city is far from perfect, with street homelessness, run-down houses, and security concerns. Yet, instead of hiding these issues, it faces them head-on, using color and sound to transform fragility into a unique beauty and chaos into a rhythmic harmony.
Just a short drive away, Viña del Mar presents a stark contrast. Built by the wealthy as a summer retreat, it exudes a quiet, clean, modern, and bright atmosphere, much like an elegant noblewoman who is beautiful on the outside but hard to get close to. It’s perfect for a relaxing vacation, but it doesn’t leave a lasting impression.
In comparison, Valparaíso truly captured my heart. It is a unique place, the first city I’ve encountered that so skillfully blends romance and reality, chaos and freedom, decay and vitality.
The essence of travel might be to discover such places—imperfect yet real, untidy yet profoundly moving.
