Chiloé, a sprawling gem in southern Chile, often finds itself overshadowed by the more famous Easter Island and Torres del Paine National Park. However, if your itinerary allows, this enchanting island is well worth a visit. A direct flight from Santiago to Mocopulli Airport, followed by a scenic 30-minute drive, will bring you to Castro, the island’s vibrant capital.
En route, don’t miss Rucalaf, a delightful restaurant that stands out among Chiloé’s already impressive culinary scene. Be sure to try their milk pudding—it’s an absolute must-try!
Castro, while not the most extraordinary, offers a charming base for your adventures. Stock up on essentials at the local supermarket and, if time permits, explore the historic churches and bustling craft markets. The iconic Palafitos, colorful stilt houses perched over the water, are a photographer’s dream, though they may appear less striking in person. Conveniently located between the airport and Castro, these picturesque homes are perfect for a quick stop if the weather is sunny.
Venturing further south, the quaint town of Chonchi awaits. Nestled near the serene Lake Huillinco, it boasts a tranquil atmosphere and stunning natural beauty. I highly recommend staying at Casas Martin Pescador, a cozy villa nestled in the forest by the lake. The views are breathtaking, and the location is ideal. Keep an eye out for the elusive Pudu, a local deer species, though spotting one requires a bit of luck.
Continuing westward, you’ll reach the coastal town of Cucao, known for its exquisite churches and pristine beaches. Another highlight is the mystical Muelle de las Almas, a pier steeped in local legend. According to folklore, this is where the souls of the departed are ferried to their final resting place by a boatman.
Note that parking and entry to the park each cost 3000 pesos, so be sure to have some cash on hand. The park closes at 5 PM, and the walk from the parking lot takes about an hour, so plan your visit accordingly.
Chiloé is renowned for its 16 UNESCO-listed wooden churches, scattered across the main island and its surrounding islets. While visiting all of them can be a challenge, the journey itself is a feast for the eyes. If you’re driving, take the time to explore each one. Further south, the roadside restaurant Chancho en Piedra offers a delightful culinary experience.
Run by an elderly man who keeps three cats and many alpacas, the restaurant serves homemade jams and sweet chili sauce. The roasted meat, freshly prepared by the owner, paired with a decent wine, makes for a perfect midday break.
From the town of Queilen, you can embark on a thrilling whale-watching excursion (reservations required). Alternatively, if you’re traveling along the Southern Highway, you can catch a boat from Chaitén, a small city on the other side of the bay. This area is home to the world’s three largest types of whales: blue whales, fin whales, and sei whales.
You’ll also have the chance to spot a variety of local seabirds, including the majestic black-browed albatross. When the captain referred to the bird as “ceja negra,” I couldn’t help but chuckle at the whimsical name.
