072 Chiloe
➡️ Where: Nestled in the southern reaches of Chile, embark on a scenic 12-hour bus journey from the bustling capital, Santiago, to the charming port city of Puerto Montt. From there, hop on a ferry to reach the enchanting island.
➡️ Recommended travel duration: 3 days
➡️ As Chile’s largest island, Chiloe stretches 180 kilometers from north to south and spans just 50 kilometers at its widest point. The eastern side is where most of the population resides, while the western coast, bordering the vast Pacific Ocean, remains largely untouched, covered in dense forests and sparsely populated.
The island is home to over 150 wooden churches, with 14 of them designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Most visitors make a beeline for the island’s capital, Castro, upon arrival. One of the most striking features here is the row of colorful, stilted wooden houses (known locally as Palafitos) perched along the water’s edge (Figure 2).
During high tide, the outermost stilt houses transform into temporary docks, where fishing boats can tie up directly to the wooden posts, creating a picturesque and functional scene.
I had the opportunity to experience a traditional fishing trip. As our wooden boat glided away from the shore, I cast the net into the sea three times, but unfortunately, my efforts were fruitless.
The boat owner (Figure 4) offered some words of encouragement, saying, “We typically fish at night, setting out at 5 PM and returning at 7 AM the next morning. Sometimes we go for three or four days without a single catch, so we have to keep moving. You’ve only tried three times; don’t be disheartened.
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In the Inca era, Chiloe was shrouded in mystery and considered a dark, inhospitable place due to the cold, murky waters that made it unsuitable for human habitation. However, such places often became hotbeds for sorcery and mystical practices. In 1880, a local witch trial shed light on the island’s supernatural beliefs.
A sorcerer testified that they could defy gravity and fly by wearing a special vest called a macuñ. They also claimed to possess a ghostly ship capable of underwater navigation, a tale that might have inspired elements of the “Pirates of the Caribbean” movies.
To this day, sorcery and mysticism continue to thrive on Chiloe Island.
I visited a female sorcerer (cover photo), who, while sipping mate tea, displayed an array of herbs, spices, and a round wooden carving adorned with sun, moon, and star symbols. Her interpretation of these symbols provided a fascinating glimpse into a world of ancient beliefs and practices.
➡️ Personal recommendation: Don’t miss the unique culinary experience of cooking a traditional Chilote dish called “Curanto” (Figures 8 and 9). The process involves a large earthen pit, where hot stones are first placed, followed by a mix of seafood, chicken legs, and potatoes. The pit is then covered with a wet cloth, and before long, you’ll be treated to a delicious, steaming feast.
➡️ 365-day travel reflection
In regions where the living conditions are particularly challenging, people often ascribe their struggles against nature to some form of supernatural force. Since these beliefs cannot be easily disproven, the words of local sorcerers and shamans are generally accepted without question. At its core, civilization seeks to challenge and overcome this cognitive bias, guiding individuals to a deeper understanding of their identity, origins, and future paths.
