December 12, Santiago-Valparaiso-Santiago
Today was the most laid-back day of our trip. We indulged in a luxurious sleep-in until 8 AM, followed by a leisurely breakfast. Our guide then arranged for a car, and we hit the road to Valparaiso at 11 AM, embarking on a scenic 2-hour drive.
We arrived at the bustling port of Valparaiso around 1 PM. The vibrant atmosphere was immediately apparent, with numerous sea lions lounging on the beach, basking in the sun or occasionally letting out a roar. It’s crucial to note that the waves here are exceptionally powerful, so it’s best to avoid venturing too close for the perfect photo.
For lunch, we dined at Restaurant Bote Salvavidas, a charming seaside eatery. Here, we savored fresh fish and shrimp while the soothing sound of the waves and the cheerful calls of seagulls provided a delightful backdrop.
After lunch, our guide led us on a picturesque walk up the hill. Our first stop was Paseo Yugoslavo Square, where we were greeted with breathtaking views of the entire city and a refreshing sea breeze. As we strolled through the winding streets and alleys, we encountered more and more vibrant graffiti, as if stepping into a different world. The explosion of colors, from the quaint little houses to the colorful murals and wildflowers, created a magical, almost fairy-tale-like ambiance.
Continuing our ascent, we were surrounded by a kaleidoscope of colorful houses, intricate graffiti, and art galleries. The old-fashioned cable cars swaying along the tracks added a touch of vintage charm, making it feel as though time had stood still. The upper part of the streets was a mosaic of color blocks, while the lower part was a canvas of graffiti. Each piece of street art was a burst of imagination, with exaggerated expressions and vivid colors, infusing the city with a dynamic energy.
At this point, you can truly appreciate why Pablo Neruda described Valparaiso as:
“You are so absurd, so crazy, so irrational, you have never even combed your hair properly, never dressed properly,”
Our final stop was a visit to Neruda’s former residence, a five-story red building nestled among lush greenery, with a view of the sea and spring blossoms. I couldn’t help but envy such a poetic life. Being a poet seems like a wonderful profession, especially when you’re also a Nobel Prize-winning politician.
We returned to the car and headed back to Santiago at around 5:40 PM. We had hoped to reach the foot of Cerro San Cristóbal before the cable car service ended at 7:30 PM, to enjoy a panoramic view of Santiago and the Andes. However, the city traffic was unexpectedly heavy, and by the time we reached the base, it was 7:35 PM, and the cable cars had stopped running.
Undeterred, we decided to hike up the mountain, a 4-kilometer trek that took about an hour. Fortunately, we made it in time to witness the stunning sunset and the statue of the Virgin Mary. The 4-kilometer descent was equally rewarding, and we felt a deep sense of satisfaction.
