Recovering from the Intense Aftermath of Sandakan: My Personal Journey and Tips

Sabah, Malaysia, is a true gem for budget-conscious travelers. The round-trip airfare from Beijing to Kota Kinabalu is approximately 1100 (AirAsia, excluding luggage; it’s wise to book in advance as prices can fluctuate). For the round-trip fare from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan, you’ll pay over 400 (Firefly, including luggage).

Here’s a savvy tip: invest in a large silk bag, similar to those used by seasoned travelers. With AirAsia, you can avoid checking in luggage, and once you land, simply stow your extra clothes in the silk bag, which can then be checked in with Firefly.

I was drawn to Sandakan after reading “Land Below the Wind,” a novel that has long been an alternative name for Sabah, a popular resort area in East Malaysia. However, what truly captivates visitors here are the untouched tropical rainforests, where you can embark on thrilling hikes and boat rides to observe a myriad of birds and exotic wildlife.

1. Downtown Sandakan: This charming town is compact, with a handful of attractions, making it easy to explore on foot. The prices are wallet-friendly, and the local cuisine is a treat. Don’t miss the bustling night market by the sea. If you’ve read the novel, a visit to Agnes Keith’s house is a must. In essence, the town is perfect for leisurely strolls, savoring delicious food, and soaking in the old-world charm.

2. Accommodation: Sepilok B&B is the closest option to the Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC), and it’s a favorite among Chinese tourists. We also chose this place, and it proved to be very convenient, just a 400-meter walk to the RDC. Check-in at the hotel is after 3 PM, but you can drop off your luggage first, head to the RDC to purchase night and morning tickets, and then visit the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre to see the orangutans.

3. RDC: The night tour costs 50 MYR per person, and the morning ticket is 30 MYR. Our group tour at night was a bit disappointing, as we didn’t spot any animals, and some even grumbled about the expense. However, I believe it’s worth taking a chance. The next morning, we ventured out again and, while we didn’t see many birds, three enthusiastic foreigners pointed out a stunning little bird.

Despite the challenges, hiking here remains a top choice. Some trails can be muddy, so it’s best to wrap your shoes in plastic bags beforehand.

4. Orangutan Center: Feeding times are at 10 AM and 3 PM, and the center closes at 4:30 PM, so plan your visit accordingly. The experience is quite rewarding. We skipped the Proboscis Monkey Center due to its distance and the mixed reviews of the Sun Bear Conservation Centre, opting instead to focus on the more accessible and highly-rated attractions.

5. Kinabatangan River Cruise: This adventure was the highlight of our journey, offering a breathtaking array of wildlife, from colorful birds and playful monkeys to majestic elephants. You can easily arrange your tour at the hotel front desk, with options ranging from a one-day excursion to more immersive two-day and three-day experiences, each with its own unique pricing.

We opted for the one-day tour priced at 300 MYR, but we wished we had gone for the full three days and two nights. Booking is a breeze; just sign up at your hotel, and a comfortable car will pick you up, whisking you away in about two hours. The multi-day tours come with varying accommodation options, so prices differ: 350 to 540 MYR for two days and one night, and 580 to 750 MYR for three days and two nights.

Sandakan left an indelible mark, and I found myself still daydreaming about it long after returning. As for Kota Kinabalu, it’s a fantastic destination for a relaxing holiday. Find a cozy hotel, and head to the bustling Central Market, where you can buy incredibly fresh seafood at rock-bottom prices.

I picked up four large crabs for just 20 MYR and some steamed small fish for 6 MYR, both unbelievably fresh. Processing fees are around 15 MYR per dish, depending on the complexity. Two Chinese-run stalls, number 16 and 29, are the most popular, and both served up delicious dishes. The Pink Mosque and other attractions are rather ordinary, so focus on the culinary delights and leisurely strolls.

Gaya Street is a must-visit for food lovers and photography enthusiasts. The sunset here is absolutely stunning, and you can also explore the charming stilt houses.